Grading Up Sewing Pattern

Grading Altering Sewing Pattern Sizes to make them fit better. This time I had to grade the pattern up five sizes from bust 31-waist 255 to 38-295.

Advanced Pattern Making Techniques Pattern Grading Sewing Techniques Sewing For Beginners Sewing Hacks

Similarly if you overlap all those pieces slightly you get a smaller pattern.

Grading up sewing pattern. For this tutorial Im using my T-shirt pattern for Women Thimble-T. Establish overall grade difference between patterns measurements and body measurements. The simplest explanation of pattern grading is that if you cut a pattern apart and then move all the pieces slightly away from each other you make a sewing pattern bigger.

This means that there is a 2 difference between sizes. Grading allows the one pattern to be made then sized up and down rather than having to remake the pattern in each size from the relevant size Block. When I first started using sewing patterns as a pre-teen I didnt even know that such things existed as grading patterns.

Were going to start off with the basics by learning how to grade a basic bodice. Grading up to 3 size differences is easy and above that is totally possible with the right techniques. A large majority of commercial patterns will have a 2 grade.

I finished another vintage dress pattern this week and wanted to share the results. There are grading rules to determine how much the pattern is enlargeddecreased at each cardinal point. I pretty much will only sew a vintage pattern for myself if it is one that has not been reissued.

Grading between sizes is crucial if you are a different size at your bust waist andor hip. Grading up a multi-sized Fashion Pattern increasing the size of a commercial sewing pattern from a pattern that already has size line. Also knits tend to be stretchy and a bit more forgiving so you may be less likely to need.

In that scenario your grading path would look something like this. Divide this measurement by 4 to determine how much to shift each pattern piece. Determine how much you need to grade your pattern by.

Now you know the three most important fundamentals for grading your patterns and use the sizes that truly correspond to yous. Is there a difference if Im doing a knit or a woven. My vintage sewing pattern collection started when I was about 18.

The patterns opened up a world of fashion and self-expression for me just as I was exploring my aesthetic as a young woman and so I committed to learning to sew. The pattern came from the same Etsy seller as my last project so I used her guide to grading vintage patterns which I bought along. Lets continue using the example from above but this time lets assume we need to grade up by 2.

I have a really basic bodice and skirt pattern a fitting shell really and it is handy to help ensure that the grading up will fit. When grading up a pattern sometimes it helps superimpose a pattern that is your size for the armholes and other trickier bits. This is known as slash and spread grading and it looks like the diagram below.

Using this machine the pattern in the base size is divided into sections based on certain landmarks on the body. I am grading this pattern up several sizes but many sources suggest only grading up one or two sizes. Say if youre a 12 bust 14 waist and 16 hip or a 28 bust 26 waist and 26 hip.

For me this was ie 2 divided by 4. Grade The grade of a pattern is the incremental increase or decrease in a pattern size at a given cardinal point. Take caution when grading up a pattern.

How to grade a pattern. Compare your measurements to the patterns. Manual Grading Machine - A very precise ruler that moves the pattern piece in increments reflecting the grade chart to scale the pattern up or down.

So lets follow a step by step example of this technique. Honestly this particular pattern sat in my sewing room for about a year before I got around to grading it up. I learned basic sewing at a young age from my grandma and my mom and later in 4-H and.

This is how I grade up most of my patterns. I much prefer a pattern reissue like Vintage Vogue or Retro Butterick as I dont. In the past patterns were graded manually using a grade machine and paper andor tagboard.

How to pattern grade. S Bust S Waist L Hip Grading Path Or lets say you have an XL bust measurement M waist and XL hip. Pattern grading puts you in the drivers seat giving you the ability to adjust the sizing of a pattern while keeping the garment and its features intact.

Unlike modern sewing patterns the vintage ones usually only ever came in single sizes so I would spend hours trawling through vintage sewing pattern sellers. Heres a great tutorial from the Curvy Sewing Collective. Off the Rack Grading Up a Vintage Sewing Pattern Alterations Off the Rack.

This shows how sizes increase from sizes 6 - 20 for the Bodice Block Front. This shifting idea is great I will try it next time for those vintage shapes. Say your bust and waist both measure a S but your hip measures a L.

Grading isnt so bad let us show you lets get started. If your measurements fall outside the chart youll need to grade the pattern itself either up or down. On this pattern I am size XXL of chest and waist and size 4XL of hips.

This distributes overall grade among four parts of body or pattern left and right front and left and right back. Divide overall grade by 4 to get allocated grade. The basic theory is the same but some of the techniques are a little different.

I am by no means an expert.

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