Grading Up A Sewing Pattern

Taking the time to do this if youre measurements are further from each other will make you a lot happier with the fit of your clothing when they are all sewn up. Determine how much you need to grade your pattern by.

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Divide this measurement by 4 to determine how much to shift each pattern piece.

Grading up a sewing pattern. Grading up a multi-sized Fashion Pattern increasing the size of a commercial sewing pattern from a pattern that already has size line. Dont fret its possible to make any pattern bigger or smaller by a mystical process called grading. Divide overall grade by 4 to get allocated grade.

Pattern grading takes the sample size and turns it into a range thats more fitting for everyone. Pattern grading is the process is taking a sewing pattern of one size and then making it bigger or smaller from there instead of starting from scratch to draft the pattern in a different size. With the bodice on the Hazel I am only grading up one size so I marked one increment.

Youll notice when we get to grading that the bodice pattern increasesdecreases by different amounts at different points. Grading up to 3 size differences is easy and above that is totally possible with the right techniques. If you suspect you may need to alter the fit of the pattern as well as grading the size its important to grade the pattern first before you sew a toile and diagnose fit issues.

Each brand uses a specific chart of measurements for each pattern. The initial pattern is created in a base size not the smallest size usually a size 10 or size 12. Once the pattern is perfected the pattern is then made in the other sizes by increasing or decreasing the pattern at.

For me this was ie 2 divided by 4. Now take those measurements and divide each one by the number of seams in your pattern and you have the amount that you will grade your pattern up example. Cut and Spread Cut and Overlap The process of manually grading a sewing pattern by cutting the pattern apart and increasing or decreasing its size.

Pattern Grading is a technique for creating different sizes of a finished pattern. Ok this is a bit of an effort but for a rare 40s pattern. Using your ruler measure the increments between sizes.

Establish overall grade difference between patterns measurements and body measurements. Just take your time and measure the distances between every size on every part. In this tutorial we have decided to grade the pattern up by 2 sizes and will add 34 inch 2cm to the specified seams.

He shows you all his Tips Trick. Now take your ruler and measure how far you need to go out from the pattern sizes and mark it. The simplest explanation of pattern grading is that if you cut a pattern apart and then move all the pieces slightly away from each other you make a sewing.

This is where making a muslin of your graded up pattern will come in handy. For the Belcarra I am going up 3 12 sizes so I multiply my measurement from Step 1 times 35 and use that measurement when grading up. Compare your measurements to the patterns.

In all cases you are simply grading your cut path between the different sizes. With the Hazel youll notice that the increments between the upper sizes are larger than the smaller ones. You cut it vertically to add width which is what I did andor horizontally to add length.

In short to grade patterns up to a bigger size you have to cut the pattern up at specific points along the body and spread it apart. If youre thinking of grading up you may need to think about your cradle and bridge too. It is important to remember that not because in a clothing store you are always size M means that in all the garments or patterns you are size M.

How to pattern grade. Say if youre a 12 bust 14 waist and 16 hip or a 28 bust 26 waist and 26 hip. Gift yourself the freedom to make the most out of paper patterns by extending the sample size to work best for your vision.

Grading between sizes is crucial if you are a different size at your bust waist andor hip. You might need to grade up for each pattern piece. Pattern Shifting The process of manually grading by shifting a pattern back and forth to increase or decrease its size.

Use clean paper to trace the graded pieces transferring all marks including the grainline and notches. Lets continue using the example from above but this time lets assume we need to grade up by 2. In this Fashion School with Nick Verreos video Nick shows you how to grade your pattern from a size 14 up to a size 22.

For the width of the armhole you want to expand it by adding to it from the side seam without tampering with the inner part of the curve. The 3 things you need to know before Grading Altering Sewing Pattern Sizes 1- Know your measurements. Step Two Lay your tissue pattern on your tracing paper.

In fact the chances of getting a vintage pattern from an era like the 30s that just happens to be in your size is pretty well zero. This distributes overall grade among four parts of body or pattern left and right front and left and right back. This is not so with the Belcarra.

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